Adjustable Line Tension - Guy Wire Rigging

Blakes Hitch Method:
I like to use the Blakes hitch to adjust the tension in a line.  Here's a scenario.  The upper line can connect to a grommet.  The loop formed at the bottom will go on a stake.  When the coils are pulled up, then tension is maintained in the line.

It's easier to form the Blakes hitch by tying around the contour of your hand.  Your thumb points up the line.  Your fingers coil around it.  The first coils wrap on the thumb.  The third and forth coils wrap in front of the thumb.  The fifth strand crosses the coils - to form a bridge.  Then it wraps the thumb in the opposite direction.  Note how it curls underneath the line and thumb.  When the thumb pulls out of coil 1 and 2, the 5 strand is inserted.

For this application, you create a loop below the Blakes hitch.  The traditional use of the Blakes hitch is for tree climbing, where the loop is established above the Blakes hitch.  In that application it captures a climbng anchor (i.e. tree limb).

Here's an overview of the Blakes hitch guy-wire.  The situation is that you need to connect, pull and hold tension in something (e.g. tent or tarp).  For connecting a rope to objects, I first try to use the buntline knot.  The buntiline is the top knot in the illustration that follows.  The loop below the Blakes hitch goes to the ground anchor - like a stake.  Pulling the Blakes coils up towards the buntline will keep the rope tight.  The purpose of a guy-wire is to hold tight.

The Small Bag of Tricks

This will be the collection site for items that just don't constitute enough content to make paragraph.  However, they're good to know.

How to Hold a Throwline:
Method 1 (preferred by me) - form a Munter hitch around your thumb nail.  It's a hard shell that can handle the friction generated in a throw.  The multiple strands being captured between your thumb and finger likewise spread the friction impact.

Method 2 - Literature recommends forming a slip knot.

How to Loosen a Prusik Hitch:

There came a day when I noticed that I was zipping my Prusik hitch off of the climbing rope in a flash.  It evolved from repetition.  My illustration shows a single thumb.  It's really involves two thumbs with the left one remaining stationary while the right one is in motion.  

To only loosen the Prusik hitch for the purpose of advancing it up the rope, place the thumb into the hitch as shown.  Just don't move the thumb further.

How to Hoist a Rope:

The pile hitch makes for a good attachment to hoist a rope.

Rigging to Practice Climbing Skills

Placing a sled on a ladder provides a training resource.  The stress of pulling up an incline adds muscle tone and enables skill rehearsal.  Descending on an incline allows for experimentation with systems.  It's a good dead of winter activity for a climber.

Sled Construction:
1. 2x4 bolted with a spacer.  Keeps the sled on track.
2. PVC pipe that glides on ladder.
3. Plywood base
4. Webbing with a girth hitch around #3
5. Connection to climbing system
6. Metal ladder

 The ladder is placed on the stairs to create an incline.  The ladder can be placed on various steps to control the incline.  A webbing anchor can be add by cutting holes into the riser board.  The anchor has to capture the frame of the stairs, not just the riser board.  This webbing anchor is secured to the ladder.

There's a lot of merit for the new climber to use this.  I used it to practice knots while my body was stressed.

An alternative to an incline for creating resistance, the ladder track can be placed on the floor, and a rigging can provide resistance like the one below.

Guy Wire Quiz

Consider this scenario.  A tropical storm is 2 hours away from hitting your campsite on the Blue Ridge Parkway.  You need to secure the guy-wires on your tent.  You need a superior knot hold to maintain tension.

What knots do these illustration resemble?  Which would be superior for holding position?  Which one(s) could be marginal for the approaching storm?

Slippery Slope Descent System

Imagine a long hike on a rugged trail that traverses hilly terrain.  It begins to drizzle rain.  Within a short span of time, you no longer have sure footing.  You find yourself judging the risk of sliding and the potential outcome.

This descent system is intended to be light for hiking and provide stability on steep slopes.  The hiker with a full back-pack would definitely appreciate this.

Here's the system:
1.a. Hiker is attached to an aluminum rap-ring* with a Munter hitch.
1.b. A 2nd hiker can be attached, but they will remain locked off.  The weight of the 1.a. hiker prevents the flow of rope through the Munter hitch.
2. Running bowline is cinched around an anchor - like a tree.
3. Thin line rated for climbing(=< 9 mm)
4. Thin unrated line (=<3 mm) to pull down the knot and retrieve the climbing rope

When the first hiker is attached to the rap-ring, they're managing a self-belayed rappel.  The second hiker positioned above experiences their line being locked off.  The weight of the hiker below does that.  This dynamic is commonly referred to as a fireman's belay. When the first hiker is off rope, then second hiker is free to rappel.  The first hiker is in a position to provide a belay by pulling down on the rope.

*rap-ring is a metal ring commonly used for rappels or rigging.

Setting a Line in the Wilderness

There are a multitude of reasons for needing to set a line in the wilderness.  A common one is to hoist food away from animals.  Climbers may need to set a line for the purpose of advancing a rope up a tree. A standard approach would be to carry multiple throw weights and lines - should one throw system get stuck.  This is a minimalist scenario where it's not practical to carry weights or the last weight is stuck out of reach.  The solution is to pack a weight and a line inside a sock in manner that minimizes the risk of becoming stuck.  With this system a long range hiker only carries thin throwing line as the "extra" item to stow.  The remote climber now has a back-up.

When setting a line, the target is to position a line high over a sturdy limb and to have that line return to the ground.  The high targets and dense undergrowth make the task more challenging. A high target may be reached, but there may be a challenge on returning it to the ground.  Bushes and branches will snag your line along the way.

The key is to create an apparatus that dispenses line, the line is detachable and contains a weight found in nature.  The answer is the ubiquitous sock.  Load a weight from your surroundings into the toe (sand, dirt, gravel, rock or wood).  The weight needs to be comfortable for throwing.  Tie off the sock with an overhand knot and turn it inside out.  Your weight is contained in this miniature sack.  The end of a line is inserted through the overhand knot.  The line is loaded inside the sock or newly formed miniature sack.  The best method is to use a fig-8 stack on the hand then place that inside the sock.  Only a few feet of line are packed.  The  rest of the line remains on the ground.

Here are the benefits.  Packed line dispenses out, which returns your line to the ground.  A dispensing line doesn't have a pendulum swing.  Swinging is one cause of stuck lines.  Note that the line is inserted, not tied to the sock.  If the line falls into a tight wedge, then the sock and line can be separated.

1. Sock

2. Weight placed in tow

3. Overhand knot

4. Bight of throw line inserted

5. Sock inverted to make small sack

6. New location of weight inside sock/sack

7. Area filled with packed throw line

8. Illustration of Fig-8 stacked line